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Travel

Landing in Nevers (Decize to Nevers)

Easier ride today than yesterday’s 100+km, 45km or so mostly along the Loire canal, except where work crews had the canal path blocked for resurfacing, where we got to watch them create new Eurovelo 6 surface as we watched.

One of the other riders told me this afternoon than he had broken 2000km since Vienna during today’s riding, which fe els about right – my bike computer having quit way back in Austria on the first week of this ride…

Staying tonight at a Catholic hostel called Espace Bernadette on the edge of Nevers’ very nice old town. Twin rooms with nice beds and really good food at dinner again, just like the Catholic places we stayed at in Germany. No WiFi, but the tourist office in town took care of that modern necessity after lunch, during our sightseeing afternoon in central Nevers.

Off to a place near Sancerre tomorrow, 60km or so. Supposed to be getting hot tomorrow, so we’re planning on leaving early, right after breakfast.

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Travel

The Last River (Paray-les-Monial to Decize)

After leaving the horse farm we picked up another escort of local cyclists and headed west and north toward Digion, about twenty kilometres or so, following the Canal du Centre after leaving the hills around the farm.

Digion brought us to the last river of this trip, the Loire. The Canal du Centre actually crosses the Loire on the Pont du Canal at Digion, basically an aqueduct carrying the canal over the river.

We had a quick group photo with the local tourism office on the bank of the Loire, then headed to the town of Bourbon-Lancy for what turned out to be another awkwardly translated mayor’s speech and a snack. Pretty little town centre, though.

Lunch was picnic style in a little village a few km north of Bourbon-Lancy, and we used both the official Eurovelo 6 route and main roads to finish the ride to Decize. Unfortunately the EV6 through this district has almost no signage, making it hard to follow even with a map and GPS. With the detour out to Bourbon-Lancy it wound up being a long day, over 100km and we didn’t get to our hostel until nearly six.

Dinner was a very nice pizza at a place right on the bank of the canal just outside Decize, then an early bed.

The day ended with a really spectacular front of very dark clouds filling the south-east horizon, so our weather might be in for a change…

Random amusement: when I misspel “canal” while writing these posts on my phone, one of the options it offers is “cabal”… biking alongside the cabal would make this a very different sort of European trip indeed!

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Travel

Avec les Chevaux (Montceau-les-Mines to Paray-les-Monial)

Short day of 50km or so again, mostly along the canal with a few detours into low hills. Easy riding, no rain, and the temperature topped out in the low twenties, which is a nice riding temp.

Paray-les-Monial is a nice small town with a well-preserved 11th/12th C Romanesque church. We spent the afternoon poking around Paray, including a stretch of using the tourist office’s free WiFi, then got back on the bikes to ride out to our lodging for the night.

We’re actually staying in a Gites d’Etape, part of a horse farm about 8km outside of Paray-les-Monial. It’s well out in the country, very quiet, and very horsey. Most of us are in hostel style dorms, which is fine with me but does cause a certain amount of murmuring now and then.

Off to Decize tomorrow, a longer day of 70+km.

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Travel

Dodging Thunderstorms (Chalon-sur-Saone to Montceau-les-Mines)

Left Chalon in the morning with a couple of the local cyclists riding along for the first five km or so, including a stop at one of the few supermarkets open on a Sunday morning. France really does shut down on Sundays, especially in the villages we ride through. An open shop or cafe is not to be passed up.

After the thunderstorms of the previous afternoon and overnight we had been wondering how rainy the day was going to be, but I managed to miss the heaviest rains, although others got caught.

Mostly along the Canal du Centre today, which connects the Saone and Loire rivers. That kept the hills to a minimum, although we did climb steadily alongside the canal locks most of the day, including one set of seven step locks.

Finding our lodging at the end of the day’s riding has been a challenge since the start of the trip, and was again today, especially because I hadn’t been able to get the appropriate high detail map tiles onto my phone for half the town… Eventually two locals hopped in their car and lead our group to the auberge, which was clear on the other side of Montceau-les-Mines, several kilometres away.

One last thunderstorm rolled through just a few minutes after we got to the auberge, and while some folks got caught in it we got to watch it from the porch with the bikes tucked away in the garage.