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Travel

In Which We Accidentally Wander Into Germany…

Long day today, 86km or so of riding from Linz to Kasten, just 20km or so short of the German-Austrian border. Tomorrow we’ll be in Passau, Germany.

In the mean time, near the end of today’s ride we found ourselves crossing from Austria into Germany and then back into Austria basically by accident. There was a sign saying Freistaat Bayern, a billboard with a URL that ended in .de instead of .at, and that was about the extent of our border crossing excitement.

For someone used to the rent-a-cop histrionics of the Canuck and Yank border monkeys, it was a refreshing and somewhat startling way to cross (then re-cross) an international border!

Aside from failing to cause an international incident, this morning I took an hour and a half off from the riding to visit Linz’s Schlossmuseum, which is hosting a special exhibit on the First World War (Der Erste Weltkreig, auf Deutsch) and specifically the effects in what is now modern Austria. The Austro-Hungarian Empire had a terrible war and ended up collapsing entirely in November 1918 immediately after the Armistice. The front lines never reached Upper Austria but the effects were certainly felt, from rationing and privation among the civil population to the large collection of military, POW and other camps the region wound up hosting.

Should you happen to find yourself in Linz between now and December, I recommend the WW1 exhibit. Well worth an hour or two.

After the museum visit I booked it out of town up the Danube to try to catch some of the rest of the group. Riding with the group has been great, but it was also nice to head out and set my own pace for a few hours!

The guesthouse here in Kasten is very nice, a definite step up from the hostels. Eight or nine rooms, the lady who runs it does all the cooking too, and she is well set up for bike tourists.

We’re less than 20km from Passau, so tomorrow’s ride will be very short and easy and give us lots of time to explore Passau, which is supposed to have a lovely old town.

Categories
Travel

Grein to Linz

The day started off with a very nice zooming ride downhill into Grein proper after our night at the guesthouse built into a long-ruined hilltop schloss, Burg Kreuzer.

image
View downhill this morning. Much nicer ride down than up!

Unfortunately the day also started with the abrupt death of my new bike computer. It popped off it’s handlebar mount just as I started rolling, as computers sometimes do, hit the pavement and was done for. Not impressed with the fragility – bike equipment should be more shock resistant than that!

Aside from that we had a good day riding, about 65km, with only a couple km of headwinds right near the end along the river, and an unpleasant taxi driver cutting us off as we rode through Linz to our hostel.

We spent several hours in the afternoon wandering central Linz – the Mariendom is a grand spikey Gothic pile, and there are lots of nice Baroque buildings in town.

Off to Engelhartszell tomorrow, another 65km or so and our last stop in Austria – we’re into Germany by the end of Thursday when we get to Passau!

Categories
Travel

A Schloss Near Grein

Tonight we are staying in a guesthouse built into a partially-ruined schloss on a hilltop near Grei, Austria.

The bike ride up from the Danube was a bit staggering, the view is awesome, dinner was excellent and the castle bar has good beer.

These all combine to make this a short blog post. More tomorrow, when we are off to Linz.

Categories
Travel

Krems to Melk

Today’s terribly rough trip up the Danube from Krems to Melk:

Ride about 15km.

“Eine Espresso, bitte.”

Ride another 15km or so.

Stop for picnic lunch alongside the river. Admire ruined schloss above river.

Ride another dozen clicks.

“Yes, it is beer o’clock…” Watch riverboats go past.

Ride another fifteen clicks or so, arrive Melk. Drop bike at jungendherberge, see old town and massive palace/monastery.

The rain even held off until we got to town.

We’ve left the plains around Vienna and are into the dramatic hill country for now, towns and villages jammed in between the hills and the river.

Rough day, hope it stays like this the rest of the trip!