Author: Brian Burger

Nice easy ride today in good weather, with one minor route-finding error that saw us doing some minor trespassing along an active rail line for about a hundred metres before finding the road again and the marked bike route.

Aside from that it was the usual mix of canal paths, farm tracks and minor roads, with a lunch stop at a bar in a tiny village that did very good, cheap sandwiches.

Suerre is a very small place, a couple of thousand or so. No hostel, so our lodging was going to be une gymnase again, a community sports hall.

Turns out that the quite nice modern sports hall on one side of town was closed for renovating most of the summer, so we were in the old gymnase, an asphalt-floored, pigeon-haunted barn on the other side of town. Oh, and only cold water in the showers.

A few folks headed to the local camping bungalows or small hotel at the news of cold water showers; the rest of us stuck it out.

Dinner was picnic-style on the side of the canal, then it was back to the gymnase for some sleep, with some sort of kid’s concert in the adjacent schoolyard providing a soundtrack of sorts.

Easy ride along the river and canal today, pretty much dead level for the whole 60km. We’re somewhere near the two-thirds mark of the trip, both in terms of time – just over two weeks left – and distance – about 700km of 2300 left to go!

Dole is the home of Louis Pasteur, he of pasteurization and the rabies cure. The medieval/Renaissance quarter is well preserved and we got a guided tour of it, about two hours long, courtesy of the local government.

Before the tour, though, I had to deal with the first (hopefully only!) bike repair of the trip: I’ve worn through the tread on my rear tire thanks to the load on the bike and hundreds of kilometres of unpaved trails since Vienna. The red liner centre liner of the tire was showing in dashes around most of the tire. Thankfully the local bike club volunteers had met us at our hostel and one of them rode with us out to the nearby good bike store, where twenty Euro and about five minutes in the shop got me a new Michelin tire.

Dole is a neat little city to visit, but the local hostel, the Foyer St. Jean, is… interesting. The rooms and bed linens are are clean, but the whole place needs maintenance and a scrub – burned out lightbulbs, peeling paint in the bathrooms and hallways, and disorganized staff – no room assignments when our group rocked up, just a disinterested staffer telling everyone to find their own bed, that any unlocked room was available.

I’ve never been in a hostel that didn’t bother assigning beds/rooms before. Really odd.

Off to the small town of Suerre tomorrow, with a short ride of under 50km along the river and canal again.

Slept in, late breakfast by recent standards, 0830. Wandered into Besançon old town, had a look around and a picnic lunch on the banks of the Doubs.

Free guided tour of Besançon’s Vauban-designed citadel, a huge fortress on one side of town and a World Heritage site. Our guide was a fluently bilingual and highly knowledgeable man playing Vauban, although when he got into some particularly interesting point he tended to give us a two-sentence English summary after going on in French for a bit.

I was actually able to follow quite a lot of his French as well, as I already know a good bit about Vauban and the fortress design of his era, and many of the specialized terms are universal – often left untranslated from Italian, actually, as they pioneered a lot of the stuff Vauban perfected and became famous for.

After the fortress tour we got roped into an overly long presentation from the regional government. Bad PowerPoint is universal, it transcends all language barriers with its completely incomprehensible awful design. The canapes afterwards were really quite good, though.

Random observation after listening to a number of people translating things for us recently: “Touristic” is not a word a native English speaker is likely to use. It crops up regularly in German and especially French translations, though.

Off to Dole tomorrow, 60km west along the Doubs River. Weather looks like it will continue hot and clear, with some chance of showers.

Short day of riding, under 40km, but a busy day nevertheless.

We left the very nice and quiet camping bungalows outside Baum-les-Dames just before 0930 and headed into the centre of town to join a bilingual guided tour by the head of the local tourism office.

Apparently the Baum in the town name comes from the Celtic word for cave (limestone hill country around here, so lots of caves) and the Dames part from the abbey that dominated the town from it’s founding in the 5th C until it’s dissolution during the French Revolution in the 1790s.

Neat compact old town centre, although much less polished than similar small towns we saw in Austria or Germany – this is a fairly working-class area of France these days.

We left Baum-les-Dames for Besançon around noon, and had a (slightly too long) tour of Besançon’s new art gallery/conservatory in the afternoon.

No riding tomorrow, our first true rest day in just over three weeks of riding. We’re staying at some sort of student hostel in Besançon, only two of us to a room in a quiet part of town, which is nice for our day off.

We’re getting a tour of the town’s famous Citadel tomorrow, which should be cool, as the town still has most of it’s Vauban-designed 17th C fortifications intact.